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Click to enlargepadThis new book (2004) has the first complete account of the 1st ascent of Broad Peak (aka K3 and Falchan Kangri) in 1957 by Hermann Buhl, Marcus Schmuck, Fritz Wintersteller and Kurt Diemberger, drawing on the climbing diaries of Schmuck and Winterstellerand accounts written by Buhl. Controversial, none of this material had ever been published before. The account is supported by conversations with Diemberger and with Qader Saeed, who was the expedition's Pakistani liaison officer. The book includes anaccount of Buhl's last climb and death on Chogolisa, from the protocol written by the surviving team members on the day Diemberger returned to Base Camp after the accident. The book begins with a history of Broad Peak, including the first ever drawing ofthe mountain (from Conway's expedition of 1892), the first ever photograph (from the Eckenstein expedition of 1902) and Sella's panorama from the Abruzzi expedition of 1909. There is also an account of the first attempt on the Peak by the Herrligkofferexpedition of 1954. The book ends with an Appendix of all summit climbs from 1957-2004. The photos from the 1957 expedition are almost entirely from previously unpublished work of Schmuck and Wintersteller

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